March 15, 2012 - Building the First Rib

The Triplane has how many wings?  If you answered three, give yourself a pat on the back!  That means I'm going to have to build a lot of ribs.  58 to be exact.  Each rib is made up of the following pieces:  nose web, nose fillers (2), aft web, top capstrip, bottom capstrip, front filler, top filler,  top and bottom capstrip fillers, and multiple vertical reinforcers.  Glue all that together with T-88 expoxy and you have yourself a Triplane rib.   Wow. 

I made a "master" of all of the above.  Then I can start mass producing them.

Let's start off by making some nose webs.  First I trace out the nose web outline on my 1/16" plywood sheet.  You just don't drive down to the Home Depot and pick this stuff up.  I ordered mine from an aircraft supply mail order company called Wicks Aircraft Supply.   The plywood itself 1.5mm 3 ply and made in Finland by a company called Koskisen.   The plywood grain has to run lengthwise on the web. 

I cut out the webs using my jigsaw and bandsaw.  Then I cut two lightening holes in each nose web using my hole saw blades on the drill press.  It's obviously high quality.  It doesn't splinter at all when you cut it.

    
Next I had to make two nose web reinforcers.  These are cut out of 1/4" plywood.  Because of their shape, it is time-consuming to cut them.  First I used the band saw to make the cuts as shown.
    
Then I used my step-bit to make holes big enough to get the jigsaw blade in.
   
After using the Jigsaw, voila!   Now I could cut each reinforcer to the exact shape using the bandsaw.  I'm going to wear the bandsaw out with this project. 
    
OK, a batch of 10 nose webs are ready for glueing. 
   
Here is one after glueing.  I used a couple of little brass nails to hold the nose web together while it cured 24 hours. 
  
Next item on the agenda was to make aft webs.   I used the same 1/16" ply as the nose webs.  I cut them out using the jigsaw and bandsaw.  Then I cut the holes with different size holesaw blades -- the smallest one inch blade is shown.  Finally I used a square hole punch -- acquired from Micro Mark -- to make the square hole near the training edge of the web.  This is where the 1/2" by 1/2" rear spar will run through.   The aft webs are time consuming to make as well. 
   
Four out of five holes done on each aft web.  Once the holes are drilled, they must be sanded smooth. 
    
A batch of seven aft webs are complete.
   
The top and bottom capstrips are made out of 3/8" by 1/4" spruce.  However, the plans call for cutting a 1/16" slot lengthwise.  I searched high and low for a tablesaw blade with a kerf of 1/16" but I simply could not find one at a store, on the internet, or someone to borrow one from.   I was about out of ideas when my brother-in-law Mark told me his neighbor was a master woodworker who had all the tools.  So we went over to his house.  He pulled out a 1/16" kerf blade from a drawer and had his table saw setup for the job in about 10 minutes.  Then we spent about 30 minutes running about 450 feet of 3/8" by 1/4" through the table saw.  The capstrips came out perfectly.
  
And here are the results.
  
The top capstrip must have a permanent bend in the front portion.  This is done by soaking the end in 13" of water for three days.
  
And then put three soaked capstrips at a time in the bending jig for another three days.
  
And here are a batch of top capstrips after the bending process.  I also had to trim each end to the proper shape per the plans.
   
The bottom capstrips don't get bent but they do need trimming at each end. 
    
I had to make these little capstrip fillers.  The go in the capstrip grooves where the box spar runs through. 
    
These are all the future rib vertical stiffeners.  They don't go on the rib until after the main part has been glued together. 
   
The rib pieces go in the jig to make sure they all fit together.  An bit of sanding here and there was required occasionally but all in all, most of the ribs fit together pretty well. 
  
Ready for gluing.  I have my T-88 epoxy containers, paper bowl, weight scale, and rubber gloves. 
  
I mixed up some epoxy, put it in the capstrip grooves and then put the rib together in the jib.  Then let it sit for 24 hours.
  
Still curing.
   

The rib looked pretty good after I popped it out of the jib.  There were a couple of globs of epoxy that needed cutting off or sanding.  But all in all, it seems pretty solid. 

I fitted the vertical reinforcers and am ready to nail/glue them on.

   

And here is the final product with the vertical reinforcers in place.

The first rib is done!  57 to go.

   
 
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