April 15, 2010 - Museum of Naval Aviation

We departed Lakeland (KLAL) around 8AM and stopped at Ocala for breakfast.  Then it was on to Pensacola for a visit to the Museum of Naval Aviation. 

Here, we're east of Tallahassee crossing Interstate-10 which runs all the way from Jacksonville to Los Angeles. 

 
Flying over the Jim Woodruff Dam which bottles up the Chattahoochee and Flint Rivers to create Lake Seminole pictured to the right.  The river below the dam is Apalachicola River. 
 
Not sure what river this is.  Maybe the Choolawhatchee?  They sure have some wild river names down here. 
 
We were flying through some of the most congested airspace I've ever seen:  MOAs, restricted areas, special use airspace, Class C, etc.  And yet we did not see a single other plane, and only one bird!  Also, I was surprised at how forested the area just inland from the gulf was. 
 
We landed at Ferguson Airport which is only 3 miles or so from Forrest Sherman Field at the Naval Air Station.  Coming in, we had to stay below 700 feet to avoid Pensacola's Class C airspace.  Check their website out beforehand; they have the gouge for arrival procedures.  The main thing is to make sure the Blue Angels aren't flying.  The FBO provides a free shuttle to the museum but since they were busy, they loaned us a car.  Here we are at Ferguson next to another RV.
 

I last visited this museum sixteen years ago -- I can't believe it has been that long. 

The Museum of Naval Aviation is one of the premier aircraft museums in the world; on the short list with National Air & Space, Air Force Museum, Royal Air Force Museum and Seattle's Museum of Flight.   There are docents all over the place, all extremely knowledgeable about the exhibits. 

 
Diorama of the USS Pennsylvania, a cruiser with a 120 foot long temporary wooden landing platform over her stern.  Eugene Ely made the first-ever ship landing in a Model D Curtis biplane on July 18, 1911 in San Francisco Bay.  The ship was at anchor, the airplane had no brakes but 3 hooks on the undercariage, and the deck had 21 arrester lines , each line with a 50lb sandbag at either end.  The Pennsylvania's Captain said "This is the most important landing since the dove flew back to the Ark."  Less than an hour later Ely successfully took off and headed back to land.  Ely had already made the first-ever takeoff from a ship earlier on November 14, 2010 near Hampton Roads, Virginia from the USS Birmingham. 
 
The Curtiss A-1 Triad which was the first aircraft bought by the U.S. Navy.  The A-1 was nicknamed Triad because with a pontoon float and retractable landing gear it could fly from both water and land.
 
There a lot of blue airplanes in this museum!
 
An immaculate Grumman F7F Tigercat on the left side of the picture.  The Tigercat was built to be a carrier-based twin-engine fighter but it never served on the carriers.  Instead, it was an effective land-based night fighter in the Korean War. 
 
Bruce standing in front of  the "island" of USS Cabot, one of nine light aircraft carriers that fought in WWII.   
 
The Atrium is really impressive with four Blue Angel A-4 Skyhawks overhead. 
 

There were a number of beautifully done aircraft carrier models.  Below is a model of USS Lexington (CV-2), the U.S. Navy's first big Fleet Carrier. 

After fitting out and shakedown, Lexington joined the Battle Fleet at San Pedro, California on 7 April 1928. Based there, she operated on the west coast with Aircraft Squadrons, Battle Fleet, in flight training, tactical exercises, and battle problems. Each year, she participated in fleet maneuvers in Hawaii, in the Caribbean, off the Panama Canal Zone, and in the eastern Pacific.

The Captain of the vessel in 1930 and 1931 was Ernest King, who was later to serve as the Chief of Naval Operations during the Second World War. In 1931, Robert A. Heinlein, later a famous science fiction writer, worked on radio communications, then in its nascent phase, with the aircraft carrier's planes.

The Lexington actually had a squadron of ineffective Brewster Buffalo's embarked as late as January 1942.   In May 1942, USS Lexington fought and was sunk at the first aircraft carrier battle in history, the Battle of the Coral Sea.

 
Probably the most famous carrier of them all: USS Enterprise (CV-6).  The Big E fought in four of the five Pacific carrier battles, including the Battle of Midway, as well as numerous other engagements.  Despite surviving the war and an effort to save her, she was scrapped instead of becoming a floating museum.
 
The next USS Enterprise (CV-65) was the first nuclear-powered aircraft carrier and is still operational in the fleet today.  This model is the same scale as the CV-6 model -- CVN-65 is considerably larger! 
 
Here I am standing in front of one of the great airplanes:  the SBD Dauntless divebomber.  Considered obsolete before the US entered WWII; in fact the Dauntless performed very well throughout the entire war, including sinking four Japanese carriers at the Battle of Midway.  This particular airplane actually participated in the Battle of Midway, and was also at the Pearl Harbor on December 7, 1941.  Later in the war it was used for training on Lake Michigan, went into the water, where it was raised in 1990, restored, and now you see it here. 
 
"A survivor of the Pearl Harbor attack and two combat actions, including the famous Battle of Midway, it is one of the most historic aircraft in existence anywhere in the world."
 
A great book about the Battle of Midway is "Shattered Sword" by Jonathon Parshall and Anthony Tully. 
 

The big red dive-flaps allowed the Dauntless to dive almost vertically without exceeding its never exceed speed.  The vertical dive gave the dive bomber its great accuracy.  The Japanese Val and German Stuka operated the same way. 

 

 

The Dauntless was very effective at Coral Sea, severely damaging the Japanese carrier Shokoku. 

 
 

In order to train the thousands of naval aviators that would be required during World War II, the Navy converted two Great Lakes steamers into training aircraft carriers, the Sable and Wolverine, and used them for carrier takeoff and landing training on Lake Michigan.   Over 200 aircraft went into the water on landing accidents.   The aircraft are remarkably well preserved in the cold, fresh water and the Naval Aviation museum has been able to recover and restore many of them including this Dauntless. 

The museum also features a neat "Sunken Treasures" exhibit where an unrestored Wildcat and Dauntless are displayed laying on the dark, sandy bottom of Lake Michigan.   

 
A very rare F4F-3 Wildcat, one of the ealier models with non-folding wings.  The F4F Wildcat was the mainstay of the carrier fighting squadrons through the crucial eighteen months following Pearl Harbor.  When fought using smart tactics, the Wildcat was effective against the Zero.  It could dive its way out of trouble, and its sturdy construction, pilot armor protection and self-sealing fuel tanks made it tough for the Zero to bring down.  On the other hand, the Wildcat had plenty of firepower to flame the fragile Zero. 
 
Nice looking pre-war paint job.
 
Here's a wartime F4F-4 that had folding wings, very useful on a Carrier.
 
There were at least four Wildcats in the museum.  This Wildcat is in a full-scale diorama depicting ground maintenance at Henderson Field on Guadalcanal.  Check out the nose art.  The cactus denotes this Wildcat was a member of the Cactus Air Force, which was the informal name for the air group operating out of Guadalcanal.
 

The mighty F6F Hellcat which came onto the scene in late 1943 along with the new Essex class carriers.  The Hellcat totally outclassed the Zero. 

From my Amazon review of the book Hellcat: The F6F in World War II by Barrett Tillman:

"The Hellcat was not the most glamorous fighter of World War II. It wasn't the fastest, or the most maneuverable. Visibility wasn't the greatest. If you could choose any World War II fighter to go dogfight with, you would probably pick the Mustang, Spitfire or FW-190 over the Hellcat. That said, the F6F Hellcat was the perfect airplane for the U.S. Navy operating off aircraft carriers in World War II fighting the Japanese. The Hellcat had all the things carrier aviators like: long range, easy to land on the boat, rugged, a powerful, reliable engine, easy to maintain with a high availability rate and the ability to carry lots of ordnance. That its pilots loved it says it all.

Performance-wise, the Hellcat was markedly superior to its primary opponent, the Zero. In aerial combat, speed is life, and the Hellcat was significantly faster than the Zero in both level flight and a dive, and could match it in a climb. The Hellcat had plenty of firepower - six 50 caliber machine guns -- more than enough to take apart the flimsy Japanese fighters and bombers. On the other hand, with armor plating for the pilot and self-sealing fuel tanks, the Hellcat could take punishment from a Zero and keep on flying or at least give its pilot a chance to bail out and live. Unlike the Zero, the Hellcat had a radio that worked - a huge advantage that rarely is mentioned. About the only thing the Zero had over the Hellcat was turn rate in the lower speed range. The Zero was not competitive against the Hellcat, given equal pilot skills.

The above factors explain the great Hellcat air-to-air kill-ratio of 19 to 1: 5,163 downed Japanese aircraft verses 270 Hellcats shot down. In comparison, P-38s shot down 1,700 Japanese aircraft in the Pacific. Armed with Hellcats, U.S. Carrier Task Forces loitered off Japanese strongholds and destroyed all Japanese aircraft there - either in the sky or on the ground. The Japanese simply had no answer for it."

 
Here's another full scale diorama depicting a maintenance scene in an aircraft carrier hangar bay.  The Hellcat is Minsi II, that of CDR David McCampbell, the great Hellcat Ace who scored 34 kills during the war. 
 
A very rare Japanese Zero.
 
A great book about the Naval airwar in the Pacific during the first six months is John P. Lundstrom's "The First Team: Pacific Naval Air Combat from Pearl Harbor to Midway". 
 
From the side.
 
The predecessor to the Wildcat was this F3F, the last American biplane fighter used by the US Navy.  The story how the museum acquired this aircraft is very interesting.
 
The only Grumman FF1 in existence.  First flown in 1933, it was the first Navy fighter to have retractable landing gear.  This aircraft was rescued from a scrap heap in Central America and restored by Grumman volunteers. 
 
A nice looking P-40 Warhawk in Chinese markings. 
 
Although it arrived too late to participate in World War II, this F8F Bearcat might have been the best dogfighter of them all. 
 
The big TBM Avenger Torpedo/Bomber.  This plane first flew in combat at the battle of Midway.  There is a great book about Torpedo Squadron 8, which flew Avengers at Midway and Guadalcanal, "A Dawn Like Thunder: The True Story of Torpedo Squadron Eight" by Robert J. Mrazek. 
 

The only surviving Vought SB2U Vindicator. 

"the SB2U displayed its inherent flaw of being the ultimate development of the trussed fuselage and fabric concept, prompting their replacement by newer designs like the SBD Dauntless, which incorporated metal stressed skin construction techniques. The Vindicator's sole combat came in June 1942 at the Battle of Midway, nearly seven years after the aircraft first became operational. Outclassed by the SBD Dauntless, which featured dive brakes and was a more rugged design, the SB2U-3s received the uninspiring moniker "Wind Indicator" from the Marines assigned to fly them. All told, of the 12 Vindicators assigned to Marine Scout-Bombing Squadron 241 (VMSB-241) during the battle, six were lost, and five severely damaged by enemy fire or exceeding operational limits of the aircraft. "

 
This big NC-4 biplane amphibian was really the prize exhibit of the museum.  The Navy/Curtiss NC-4 flying boat is one of the most famous aircraft in the world. In May 1919, it became the first aircraft in history to fly across the Atlantic Ocean.  I couldn't capture how huge it with the camera.  It's bigger than the WWI Vickers Vimy.  I'm amazed that something this big was built so soon after the Wright Brothers first flew. 
 

Bruce hanging out in the carrier Ready Room. 

"Home Front USA," "Pacific Air Base" and "The Hangar Bay," exhibits gave visitors an opportunity to walk through a small-town Main Street (circa 1943), a U.S. Marine Corps expeditionary airfield during the Guadalcanal campaign and the hangar bay and below-deck spaces of a World War II aircraft carrier, respectively.

 
The R-2800 radial engine which powered the Hellcat and P-47.
 
A Naval Aircraft Factory N3N-3 which I like to call a Stearman on floats.  They used to operate these giving Naval Academy Midshipmen indoctrination flights off the Severn River.  One hung in Dahlgren Hall for many years; now it hangs in the Uvar-Hazy National Air and Space museum.
 

 

The museum has a really neat restaurant called the Cubi Bar Cafe where we ate lunch.  The food was a cut above.  We sat at the table in the right lower corner of the little picture below.

From the museum web site:  "Opened in 1996, the Cubi Bar Café is not only a restaurant, but a popular Museum exhibit! The Cafe's decor and layout duplicates the bar area of the famous Cubi Point Officers' Club that was a major source of enjoyment for Navy and Marine Corps squadrons, ships and units as they passed into the Western Pacific.

Cubi Bar Cafe

For nearly 40 years, the NAS Cubi Point Officers' Club, in the Republic of the Phillippines, was a marvelous mix of American efficiency and Filipino hospitality. The club was especially famous for its Plaque Bar, where transiting squadrons retired old plaques and commissioned new ones to commemorate each WestPac tour. The tradition of placing plaques in the O' Club bar was started during the Vietnam Conflict and endured until the closing of the base in 1992.

When the original officers' club was closed in 1992, the thousands of plaques that adorned the walls of the club as tokens of thanks were packed up and sent to the Museum to be placed as they were when the Cubi Club was closed. The legacy of this Cubi Bar brings back many memories to aviators whose squadron plaques decorate the walls."

I knew the museum had the only surviving P5M Marlin, but I didn't see it around.  My Dad used to fly Marlins with VP-49 out of Bermuda.  I asked a docent about the Marlin.  Turns out the docent used to fly them out of Norfolk.  He gave me directions to see the Marlin through the fence.  It looked in pretty good shape.  As I recall, when I saw it 16 years ago, the paint was peeling off of it.  The good news is that they are building a large addition to the museum and the Marlin will be displayed inside in a few years.   Apparently they have quite a few planes on the flight line that can be seen via a museum shuttle bus, but we didn't have time unfortunately. 

 
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