Strasbourg - Day 12 |
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The Ama Prima continued south down the Rhine River. At some point we ceased cruising through Germany and France appeared on our right (Germany still on the left). The next day we docked at the French town of Strasbourg. Again we boarded excursion buses which took us into town. Lynnette and I had signed up for the "long" walking tour as opposed to just town center. We started out at the Parc de l'Orangerie. Here we're walking down a tree-lined promenade. |
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At the center of the park is the "Josephine Pavilion" -- dedicated to Empress Josephine in 1806, although she apparently never visited. This building is used for a variety of functions today.
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The Parc de l'Orangerie was originally laid out in mid 18th century as a French garden by the famous André le Nôtre -- who we know well from our France 2016 trip -- and remodeled as an English garden on behalf of Joséphine de Beauharnais. The park now displays noteworthy French gardens, a neo-classical castle and a small zoo. | ||||||
Pretty.
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Notice the stork nexts on top of the chimneys. In fact, the park is a stork haven. | ||||||
We walked past the Council of Europe building. The Council of Europe is an international organisation whose stated aim is to uphold human rights, democracy and the rule of law in Europe. Founded in 1949, it has 47 member states. The organisation is distinct from the 27-nation European Union, although it is sometimes confused with it, partly because the EU has adopted the original European Flag which was created by the Council of Europe in 1955, as well as the European Anthem. No country has ever joined the EU without first belonging to the Council of Europe. The Council of Europe cannot make binding laws, but it does have the power to enforce select international agreements reached by European states on various topics. The best known body of the Council of Europe is the European Court of Human Rights, which enforces the European Convention on Human Rights. Who knew? |
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Across the canal was the very modern looking European Parliament building, completed in 1999, and the official seat of the, you guessed it, European Parliament. The EP is the legislative branch of the European Union and one of its seven institutions. Together with the Council of the European Union, it adopts European legislation, normally on a proposal from the European Commission. The Parliament is composed of 705 members (MEPs). Since 1979, it has been directly elected every five years by European Union citizens, using universal suffrage. Although the European Parliament has legislative power, as does the Council, it does not formally possess legislative initiative (which is the prerogative of the European Commission), as most national parliaments of European Union member states do. The Parliament is the "first institution" of the EU (mentioned first in the treaties, having ceremonial precedence over all authority at the European level) and shares equal legislative and budgetary powers with the Council (except in a few areas where the special legislative procedures apply). It likewise has equal control over the EU budget. Finally, the European Commission, the executive body of the EU (it exercises executive powers, but no legislative ones other than legislative initiative), is accountable to Parliament. The European Parliament's headquarters are here, in Strasbourg. Luxembourg City is home to the administrative offices (the "General Secretariat"). Meetings of the whole Parliament ("plenary sessions") take place in Strasbourg and in Brussels. Committee meetings are held in Brussels. OK, well, I'm glad that's straight. Whatever works for you. Good work if you can get it! |
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Looking across the canal at the European Court of Human Rights.
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We walked for a bit along a pleasant tree-lined canal towards town center. Soon the spires of the Eglise Saint-Paul came into view.
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Looking ahead down the canal towards town center. Strasbourg town center is essentially an island surrounded by a circular canal. | ||||||
We get our first glimpse of the Cathédrale Notre Dame de Strasbourg which is the feature attraction of Strasbourg. | ||||||
Looking across the canal at the Eglise Saint-Paul.
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Passing by the facade of the Eglise Saint-Paul. | ||||||
Passing by a University of Strasbourg building, probably the library.
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The Palais du Rhin (Palace of the Rhine). Although you can't tell in this picture, it is a large building. It and the surrounding gardens including the Place de la Republique -- the former Kaiserplatz -- are an outstanding landmark of 19th-century Prussian architecture. After the Franco-Prussian War of 1870–71, Strasbourg, along with the rest of Alsace-Lorraine, was annexed by the German Empire. As the capital of the new German province, Strasbourg was faced with the question of an official residence for the Kaiser. The decision was made to create a building symbolic of imperial power, and after much debate, a square Neo-Renaissance design was chosen, remotely inspired by the Palazzo Pitti in Florence. The architect was Hermann Eggert (1844–1920), who had already built, among other things, the Observatory of Strasbourg. Work began on March 22, 1884 in honour of Kaiser William I's 87th birthday, and construction took five years. The project received a good deal of criticism, with many questioning the need and use of the building, its appearance, and its high price. Inaugurated by Kaiser William II in August 1889, the palace housed the emperor for twelve visits down to 1914. During the First World War, the building was converted into a military hospital. After the city returned to France, in 1920 it adopted its current name when the oldest of the European institutions, the Central Commission for Navigation on the Rhine, moved in. In 1923, the palace passed hands to the French state and today houses the Direction régionale des affaires culturelles (DRAC) of Grand Est. Transformed into the Kommandantur by the Nazis during the German occupation of France between 1940 and 1945, the building was recaptured by the troops of General Leclerc, who transformed it into their general headquarters. It was there that he wrote his proclamation announcing the realization of his oath at Kufra, proclaiming that he would fight until the French flag flew again over the cathedrals of Strasbourg and Metz. The palace was threatened with destruction in the 1970s but survived and is now classified as a monument historique since 1993. |
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After Strasbourg returned to French rule, the statue in the garden in the middle of the square of a horse-mounted Wilhem I, was taken down and replaced by a monument to those on both sides who died in the First World War. | ||||||
We crosssed over the Canal du Faux Rampart into the town center island. The Cathedral towards above and ahead. | ||||||
At the base of the Cathédrale Notre Dame de Strasbourg. That's our excursion guide at lower left. Each guide has their own color for their sign. They wear a headset so we can hear them with our listening devices, even amidst a large crowd.
This is a Catholic cathedral, constructed between 1176 and 1439. Although considerable parts of it are still in Romanesque architecture, it is widely considered to be among the finest examples of Rayonnant Gothic architecture.
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A good look at one of the Cathedral's flying buttresses which support the high walls, making the large stain-glass windows possible.
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As with all the big European cathedrals, it is impossible to photograph them in their entirety. | ||||||
The facade is incredibly detailed and ornate.
At 466 feet, it was the world's tallest building from 1647 to 1874 (227 years), when it was surpassed by St. Nikolai's Church, Hamburg. Today it is the sixth-tallest church in the world and the highest extant structure built entirely in the Middle Ages.
Described by Victor Hugo as a "gigantic and delicate marvel", and by Goethe as a "sublimely towering, wide-spreading tree of God", the cathedral is visible far across the plains of Alsace and can be seen from as far off as the Vosges Mountains or the Black Forest on the other side of the Rhine. Sandstone from the Vosges Mountains used in construction gives the cathedral its characteristic pink hue.
The construction, and later maintenance, of the cathedral is supervised by the "Foundation of Our Lady" (Fondation de l'Œuvre Notre-Dame) since 1224.
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The Strasbourg Cathedral is unique with its reddish pinkish color. | ||||||
The courtyard in front was jammed with people. We did not go inside this cathedral. | ||||||
In the siege of Strasbourg during the Franco-Prussian War of 1870, the cathedral was hit by Prussian artillery and the metal cross on the spire was bent. During World War II, the cathedral was seen as a symbol for both warring parties. Adolf Hitler visited it on 28 June 1940. On 1 March 1941, General Leclerc made the "Oath of Kufra" (serment de Koufra), stating he would "rest the weapons only when our beautiful colours fly again on Strasbourg's cathedral". During WWII the stained glass was removed in 74 cases and stored in a salt mine near Heilbronn, Germany. After the war, it was returned to the cathedral by the Monuments, Fine Arts and Archives section of the United States military. The cathedral was hit by British and American bombs during air raids on Strasbourg's center on 11 August 1944. In 1956, the Council of Europe donated the famous choir window by Max Ingrand, the "Strasbourg Madonna" (see also Flag of Europe Biblical interpretation). Repairs to war damage were completed only in the early 1990s. |
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A combination of French and German. | ||||||
Our tour guide dropped us off in the old town center. Then we had a couple of hours to explore the town on our own and have lunch.
Notice all the half-timber construction in all the buildings.
Half-timbering refers to a structure with a frame of load-bearing timber, creating spaces between the timbers called panels (in German Gefach or Fächer), which are then filled-in with some kind of nonstructural material known as infill. The frame is often left exposed on the exterior of the building.
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As mentioned before, old town Strasbourg is surrounded by a circular canal. Pretty flower boxes lined the canal edges. | ||||||
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Flowers also lined the bridges over the canal. | ||||||
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An old lock at bottom right. | ||||||
Big tree surrounded by tables at an outdoor restaurant. | ||||||
Like Amsterdam, Strasbourg had canal tour boats. | ||||||
Lynnette loved the colorful flowers everywhere.
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Outside restaurant overlooking the canal.
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Strasbourg might be the prettiest little town I've ever seen. | ||||||
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White swans! | ||||||
This street directly in front of the Cathedral was very touristy, packed with sourvenir shops.
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A tall, ornate half-timbered building near the Cathedral. | ||||||
Lynnette hanging out by the Cathdral gargoyle. | ||||||
This large, very old building is on Cathedral square. It looks like a Dutch Ship of the Line from the 17th century.
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Back on the Ama Prima, we were soon heading up the Rhine. Here we are passing through a very narrow lock. | ||||||
Waiting for the doors ahead to open.
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